Back to school! Sherry from the fabulous blog
pattern - scissors - cloth is making a sew-a-long that is right up my alley!
As much as I enjoy vintage patterns and the hand-sewing I usually end up with when tackling one, her RTW techniques really interest me. Having just finished the coat for my
10 piece winter travel set, which I will share with you very soon, I didn't really have one lined up on my wish list. Then I remembered how much I love a summer coat that I own, which is torn along the sleeve scythes in the back, so I went hunting for a pattern in my vintage magazines and came up with this one (click on any of the images to enlarge):
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| Source: Deutsche Moden-Zeitung, Heft 25, 1938 |
It's a pattern from 1938 and yes, of course I will make the dress, too! Sheesh, the list gets longer instead of shorter... To see my fabric choices and muslin fitting, read on...
I chose these fabrics. The striped one will be the main colour of the coat, the dark blue will be the belt part and lapel/collar. And the dress, eventually, too... The light color is the lining.
I have actually never made a two-part sleeve, nor a classic collar with lapel and everything, so I will learn a great deal from this. The muslin is always a good opportunity to understand the basic anatomy of a pattern. I was thrilled that it came in my exact size (the vintage magazines only give one size per pattern). First I was also thrilled with the fit, but then, when starting to look closer, I discovered all kinds of things that could/should be addressed.
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| Yes, I'm seriously that lazy that I only do the lapel and sleeve on one side. I know it won't give you the exact fit... but if I realize that changes have to be made on the sleeve, I can do it right away and compare the two. Good excuse, or? |
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| I think the shoulder seam needs to be moved forward 1 cm. |
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| The back belt part could be taken in A LOT. But then, what do I do with the excess fabric? With pleats? Any suggestions? |
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| Here you see the shoulder again. Yes, should be moved forward... |
If any of you have suggestions about how to solve the problem in the back, I would love to hear them! I want to take in the belt part by about 4 cm, but then I have all the excess fabric in the two adjoining parts - should I make pleats? One in the center? Two? Or evenly distribute the excess fabric?
